Himalayas – Nako Faces

Himalayas – Nako Faces

I joined Ride Expeditions for ten days of riding by motorcycle in northern India, mostly through Spiti Valley, high in the Himalayas.  The remote area is in the state of Himachal Pradesh, bordered by Tibet to the east and the disputed Kashmir region to the north.  This will be the first of several posts with photographs from Nako, a small village on the slopes of the high peaks running along the border with Tibet.  We stayed in the town at the end of July, in a small encampment of permanent tents with a view over the village, just below the highest slopes to the ridge above.  Our stay was short – just one night – but I had enough time for a walk through town late on the afternoon of our arrival, and for a hike up to the ridge at sunrise the next morning for a view into Tibet.

In this post I’m sharing portraits of some of the people I encountered in Nako.  They are predominately of Tibetan ethnicity, with a way of life that has probably not changed much from previous centuries.  According to an Indian census site, in 2011 there were only 128 families with 572 people in the village.  It is a purely agricultural town, clearly dependent on the snow melt from above to irrigate crops in the short growing season.

At the end of July the whole town seemed to be involved in harvesting peas from the irrigated terraces stepping up the steep slopes around the village.  The lead photograph is of a man carrying a heavy sack of peas supported with a band around his forehead – one of many men carrying peas that passed me on their trek from the slopes into the area in town where large piles of bags were being loaded onto trucks.  There men checked the quality and quantities being loaded.

Of all the amazing places we rode through on that trip I loved this little village the most:  the healthy faces of the people, the evident simplicity of their lives, the communal effort to bring in the harvest, and the truly awesome scale of the surrounding peaks and valleys.

 

A view of Nako and the terrace agriculture surrounding it. It is at about 12,000 feet (3,700 meters) of elevation, on a steep Himalayan slope at the Tibetan border.

 

A beautiful little girl, walking with her father around the perimeter of the village, with its views of massive Himalayan ridges and valleys.

 

I loved this girl’s bearing and beauty – the gaze conveys impressive confidence.

 

A second photo of the girl from an angle. The pea fields below her extend up the steep slopes in terraces.

 

A boy and his friend. Ethnic Tibetans are genetically adapted to the high altitudes here.

 

A number of woman I encountered were wearing headscarves. This woman is carrying a young child, peeking curiously over her shoulder.

 

Two more women in headscarves.

 

Backpacks are out – woman carry things in these cloths that are wrapped around their shoulders and knotted.

 

This is the full image of the man toting a large burlap bag of peas to the village center. There the bags are tallied and loaded onto trucks.

 

Another load of peas being toted into town. This man had an interesting way of strapping the bag around his shoulders.

 

Large burlap bags of peas being checked before loading onto trucks.

 

A super friendly face.

 

This young man was from nearby Tibet. He was working on a small project building a masonry stair.

 

This man was pretty stylish. He had darker skin than most of the other villagers, who appeared to be ethnic Tibetans – maybe he was from a more southern part of India?