The following photographs, from a trip to Seoul, South Korea this past spring, are from a day of exploring the old palace complex of Gyeongbokgung that was at times the principal seat of Korea’s Joseon dynasty (14th century to early in the 20th century). The root name of the palace, Gyeong-Bok, translates to “brilliance and fortune”. It was given by a scholar and statesman when the palace was established in 1395, reflecting “the founders’ wishes for the dynasty to thrive and prosper”, according to a palace brochure. I was impressed with the restoration and preservation of this and other palace complexes that were built during the time of Joseon rule, as well as the fine museums I visited in Seoul – the National Palace Museum, which is within the Gyeongbokgung complex, as well as the National Museum of Korea, with excellent displays of cultural art, as well as artifacts from the peninsula that extend back in time to the Stone Age and the Neolithic, the archeological period at the end of the Stone Age.
The buildings we see in the palace complex today do not date back to its origins. The original complex was destroyed at the end of the 16th century during a Japanese invasion of the peninsula. Hundreds of the palace buildings were finally restored or rebuilt starting in the latter part of the 19th century. The restored structures were again significantly damaged or removed, however, by Japanese colonial authorities during the occupation of 1910 to 1945. As a result, restoration of structures within the large complex has continued even into the 21st century.
My visit came during a Korean cultural festival, and many of the visitors were dressed in traditional Korean clothing called hanbok. This was great timing for photographing in the palace complex – the visitors, excited and festive in their rented hanbok, contributed a perfect period flavor to the impressive palace structures.
After passing through three monumental gates, the throne hall, Geunjeongjeon, appears – elevated above a large plaza with two flights of steps. The name Geun-Jeong means “diligent governance”. Joseon kings were powerful, but also subject to requirements that they govern with integrity.The throne hall’s plaza is enclosed on three sides by long colonnaded walkways. Many of the palace visitors were dressed in traditional Korean clothing called hanbok. The clothing was out in force in advance of a Korean cultural festival, and the dressed up folks were clearly having fun with it. The costumes are available for rent at numerous shops – and those in costume were being given a discount on the palace complex admission fee.This young family was dressed for the occasion in particularly elegant hanbok.Many couples were of mixed ethnicity. This husband was from the US.The rafter ends and beams of the colonnade roofs surrounding the throne hall plaza are painted in rich colors and designs.The double roof of the throne hall itself explodes with an amazing array of decorated rafter ends and cantilevered support arms.Within the throne hall the beams are painted with colorful decorative designs. Two golden dragons chase each other on the ceiling.The visitors’ traditional clothes give the palace grounds the feeling of a film set for a period drama. Sujeongjeon Hall is the only surviving building of the palace structures that housed offices of the Joseon dynasty in the late 18th century. Looking past a corner of Sujeongeon Hall to summit of Bagakmaru beyond. The hill was the site, in 1961, of a fierce battle between South Korean police and a squad of North Koreans that had infiltrated the country in an attempt to assassinate President Park Chung Hee.The palace consists of a series of compounds that were homes to kings, queens, and princes, and to offices of the dynasty. Long pathways between the compounds are faced with interesting walls, with courses of brick atop granite stonework with precisely tooled projecting white joints. Entry gates to the compounds from the connecting pathways allow for peeks at the clusters of visitors in traditional hanbok – a window on a scene that steps back in time (except for the Covid masks!).Access to different areas of the various compounds is sometimes controlled with enclosed passageways. When the connecting doorways are open they nicely frame the scenes beyond.Gyeonghoeru Pavilion, surrounded by a pond, has two stories, with the upper level elevated on tall stone piers. The pavilion was the site of royal banquets, receptions, and examinations for entering the bureaucracy of the state.Tall stone piers elevate the second story of the Gyeonghoeru Pavilion. The base of the pavilion is sited on a grass platform within the pond. Surrounding hills rise beyond.A small projecting wing of one of the royal residences shows the exuberance of the overhanging roof designs typical of the palace structures. Rafter ends are colorfully painted, and roof profiles terminate with graceful upward curves capped with elaborate roof tile designs.Here elements of nature in the form of stones of special significance are incorporated into a palace setting in one of the former royal residences. Throughout the Chinese, Korean, and Japanese worlds elements of plant and stone bring representations of natural beauty into domestic settings and gardens. A set of doors in a beautifully weathered blue stain, secured with an ancient style of lock. Door joints are reinforced with handsome black iron.Most of the palace compounds’ structural elements are painted in colorful patterns, but the roof structure of the Geoncheonggung compound is in bare wood with a beautiful patina. This was the site of the Eulmi Incident at the end of the 19th century: The killing of the queen by Japanese assassins. The Geoncheonggung compound is a bit maze-like, with beautiful beds of shrubs and flowers.At Taewonjeon Hall another gate structure shows off small but amazingly elaborate roofs. The gate doors are flanked by the precise brick coursing and stone masonry walls that are standard around the palace compounds.A woman in traditional hanbok is framed by decorated timber framing and the entrance gate beyond.An example of how the materials, colors, and textures of various architectural elements work together to create an elaborate style that’s consistent throughout the palace.A couple taking a rest across from the Hyangwonjeong pavilion, set in the middle of a pond.The pavilion is set on a small islet in the middle of the pond and is framed by the surrounding hills. Although the scene is in the middle of the many compounds within the Gyeongbokgung palace complex, the view was constructed to replicate a totally natural scene.
